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  #31  
Old 02-29-2016, 11:00 AM
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I actually couldn't find any info on temperature rating for this stuff. I'm pretty confident that it's not going to get that hot. I am, however, going to keep a laser thermometer in the car so I can be sure. If heat does become an issue, then I might buy that lizard skin coating and do the underside.

Being that I have a downpipe bigger than the outlet of the turbo, and at least 18" before it goes under the floor, heat really should not be a big issue. Especially after I use an entire roll of header wrap on it.
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Last edited by Dayzedandkonfuzed; 02-29-2016 at 11:02 AM.
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  #32  
Old 03-01-2016, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayzedandkonfuzed View Post
I actually couldn't find any info on temperature rating for this stuff. I'm pretty confident that it's not going to get that hot. I am, however, going to keep a laser thermometer in the car so I can be sure. If heat does become an issue, then I might buy that lizard skin coating and do the underside.

Being that I have a downpipe bigger than the outlet of the turbo, and at least 18" before it goes under the floor, heat really should not be a big issue. Especially after I use an entire roll of header wrap on it.
Agreed!
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  #33  
Old 03-02-2016, 09:59 AM
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Heater box is fitting nicely so far. Still going to have to relocate the drain as it's in the way of the exhaust. I was very surprised to see that the inside portion of the box JUST clears the exhaust tunnel, with enough room to fit my hand between them.





And if anyone can tell me what this piece of foam is on the heater door, and whether or not it will cause a problem when I rip it off.... This is why new cars have cabin air filters, this thing is disgusting, and the same material lines all the heater/blend doors on this box. Gross.

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  #34  
Old 03-02-2016, 03:54 PM
LS Bonneville LS Bonneville is offline
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The foam just insulates the door between the heat and a/c (keeps the condensation down and makes the heat and a/c more efficient). They sometimes seal the door for air leaks around it when it's in the closed position but it looks like the foam on yours doesn't go to the edges of the door. Really not that big of a deal if you want to remove it.
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  #35  
Old 03-02-2016, 03:57 PM
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Good because I think its absorbed all the moisture it ever will lol. If you look close you can actually see the spores in the picture
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  #36  
Old 03-02-2016, 04:00 PM
LS Bonneville LS Bonneville is offline
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The foam is a perfect breeding ground for that mold, moisture and heat. You could also replace the foam with some new foam if you wanted too.
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  #37  
Old 03-18-2016, 02:48 PM
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Little more progress.... Nothing too interesting.

Finally got the dash back together and mounted a boost gauge:



Brand new fuel line



And I decided to use a bulkhead fitting instead of cramming the propane hose between the frame and trunk floor like it was when I took it out


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  #38  
Old 03-19-2016, 05:52 AM
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whats the propane for?
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  #39  
Old 03-19-2016, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mylilboo View Post
whats the propane for?
Cuz gasoline is for sucka's
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1980 Malibu - Propane 454 daily.

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  #40  
Old 03-19-2016, 09:07 AM
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Looking like a car again!

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1985 Cutlass Supreme - Built 350, TH350, TCI 3000 stall, 3.73 Eaton posi.

1980 Malibu - Propane 454 daily.

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  #41  
Old 10-17-2016, 12:24 PM
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I couldn't just sit around waiting for winter to tinker. The car needed brakes, and it just didn't make sense to put the undersized-even-for-stock brakes back on. Built this "kit" last month.






How to here - https://gbodyforum.com/threads/corve...0/#post-516536
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1985 Cutlass Supreme - Built 350, TH350, TCI 3000 stall, 3.73 Eaton posi.

1980 Malibu - Propane 454 daily.


Last edited by Dayzedandkonfuzed; 10-17-2016 at 12:28 PM.
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  #42  
Old 10-17-2016, 08:34 PM
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Looks good. Same setup I did.

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