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Old 02-06-2011, 07:23 PM
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stock? what's that?
 
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Default low buck double hump trans crossmember

One of the easiest and cheapest you'll ever find.
Go to your local recycling center, the big one where they take cars and industrial type stuff. This part is kinda "pot luck", but wait for somone to bring in a mid-late 80s lincoln towncar. The big square 4 dr job. Get the the trans crossmember out of it (the crane operator turned the car over so I could get to it. they know me there ) You'll need to cut 2 inches off of each end, reflatten the tube ends (yes, it's 2 inch tubing, so light too!), drill a hole in each end, and in the framerails to match. If you add about a 1.25 in spacer under the trans mount, it bolts right in. Otherwise, you can move the mounting pad for the mount up on the tube if you have a welder handy. Looks factory, and I tell everyone mine is stock. But then, my whole elkie is stock. Would I lie? I paid $4 for mine!

BTW, the reason they know me at my recycling center is that they charge by the pound for whatever you take OUT of there . Aluminum sheet/bar/tubing, same with stainless steel or reg steel. They get mesh too.

I also go inside where they buy the aluminum cans and buy trim rings for $1/ea, or hub caps for $3/ea.

Ya gotta have smart brains!
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Old 02-07-2011, 02:21 PM
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stock? what's that?
 
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here's a pic, stock one on top

http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/...ossmembers.jpg
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Old 02-07-2011, 03:13 PM
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Uploaded the picture to here.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg crossmembers.jpg (85.1 KB, 174 views)
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:08 AM
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stock? what's that?
 
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just copy/pasted this from some other site I used to frequent, can't remember the name of it tho.

Quote:
Keyser, THANKS for the tip on the Lincoln cross member. The late 90s Crown Vic is the same. Just used one in an A body with very little mod needed. Light - strong and looks like it was made for it.
Would probably cost you less than $10 at a pull-your-part yard.

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Old 04-25-2011, 03:19 AM
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another tip I wanted the new guys to see

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Old 04-25-2011, 07:57 AM
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Aren't some A bodies wider than G bodies??,cutting the ends wont take away from the bars strength??
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:19 AM
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stock? what's that?
 
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Not sure about width differences, but don't think so, and doesn't make it weaker at all. It's 1/8 in wall steel tubing, making it shorter doesn't hurt it. I used a BFH (shut up centex!) to beat the new ends flat again. Weighs less than the stock one and is stronger too.

(you may have to "clearance" the floor for the new 2nd hump, but the same BFH works great)

I also saw a video somewhere recently where you can use a BFH to adjust your carburator!

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Old 04-25-2011, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keyser sose View Post
Not sure about width differences, but don't think so, and doesn't make it weaker at all. It's 1/8 in wall steel tubing, making it shorter doesn't hurt it. I used a BFH (shut up centex!) to beat the new ends flat again. Weighs less than the stock one and is stronger too.

(you may have to "clearance" the floor for the new 2nd hump, but the same BFH works great)

I also saw a video somewhere recently where you can use a BFH to adjust your carburator!

Cool,dont know about the carb adjustment though
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Old 04-25-2011, 04:15 PM
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If a BFH won't fix it, must be an electrical problem!!!!
Donny
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:17 PM
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I'm really good with fuel injection also.
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by centex396 View Post
I'm really good with fuel injection also.
Hopefully not with that hammer
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:34 AM
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this is explains the hammer references!

http://www.gbodycentral.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=1443

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Old 05-23-2011, 09:30 PM
richp85 richp85 is offline
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keyser:
Have you actually done the swap yet i'd like to see how you actually mounted it and how it looks in the car. I went the other day and only saw late 80's crown vic's and grand marquis and although they were the same length the g. m one was smaller tubing but both looked like the one you pictured. can those be used or 90's only? Also what other modifications did you have to make other than shortning it? Did you mount it straight across and drill holes in the frame or use the stock location

Last edited by richp85; 05-23-2011 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:21 AM
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mounted it straight across and drilled new holes in the framerails. While fitting it (to drill holes) mark where you need to make a new bump in the dr side floor to clear the hump. Won't interfere with seat or seat mounting.

Will either need to move that flange for the trans mount up higher on the crossmember, or use a spacer to get the trans to sit at the correct angle.

Not hard to do at all. take a couple hrs start to finish.

and yes, the 80s one should work too. The one I used was out of an 86 Lincoln towncar.

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Last edited by keyser sose; 05-24-2011 at 02:54 AM.
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:27 PM
richp85 richp85 is offline
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Got any pics? Did you move the mount up or use a spacer? What size spacer? Sorry for all the questions I want to make sure I'm prepared to do it and gather all the materials Thanks
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