GBodyCentral.com  
  #136  
Old 10-12-2015, 06:43 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

OK, so yet ANOTHER new development. The car has a factory check valve type mechanism that holds somewhere around 10 psi to the rear brakes. This allows the rear drums to have a pre-load of sorts, making braking more efficient. This is fine and freakin dandy for drum....Not so much for disk... So now, I get to locate a bypass line (buy or build) and then I get to start the break in process.

Anyways on a side note. I got my dash reconfigured and reinstalled. Not too bad for a back woods country bumpkin!!
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!
Reply With Quote
  #137  
Old 10-12-2015, 06:47 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

OK, So I started with this hand built aluminum insert that I got from Mellow Elky, THANK YOU VERY MUCH SIR!

1) This is how I got it, blank and pretty. Marked and ready to be cut out using a hole saw and fine tuned with a de-burr tool and then cleaned up all the edges

2,3) I wanted and accent of some sort, played around with a few stickers and stuff. I scotch brited the planned section. I found an old grill or steering wheel bow tie and tapped it down. I then heavily sand blasted the whole thing with 120 grit coal dust @ 145 psi. This is the end result. Once I had it all cleaned and prepped. I then clear coated it.

4,5) This is how it looks now. Not bad for a throw together job. All in, it took about an hour and a half to get it to the car ready for installation.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 017.jpg (65.3 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 019.jpg (44.2 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 023.jpg (68.3 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 025.jpg (87.9 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 026.jpg (110.0 KB, 8 views)
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!

Last edited by mylilboo; 10-12-2015 at 06:55 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #138  
Old 10-12-2015, 06:58 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

EWWWW!! LOL Sorry for the filthy car pictures! I am going to get the carpet and seats stripped out and start building the seat perches next weekend. That is 4 layers of carpet just so you know! Its hard to push the gas peddle even.
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!
Reply With Quote
  #139  
Old 10-12-2015, 07:06 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

Also for those of you guys who have never seen this. I have a break down of the factory ujoints with the plastic injected keepers. MAJOR PITA!!! Well, it can be

OK, so apparently my phone take HUGINORMOUS pictures the size of TEXAS or something. 4350x3800. So I will work on re-sizing them and get back to it.
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!
Reply With Quote
  #140  
Old 10-12-2015, 07:59 AM
oldtinsmith's Avatar
oldtinsmith oldtinsmith is offline
Hot Rodder
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Auburn, Michigan
Posts: 1,969

Default

"Waiting with bated breath" (Shakespeare)! ...bet you didn't seen it that I be so well read!!!!

Doug
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #141  
Old 10-12-2015, 06:27 PM
melloelky melloelky is offline
Hot Rodder
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: boston,mass
Posts: 929

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mylilboo View Post
OK, so yet ANOTHER new development. The car has a factory check valve type mechanism that holds somewhere around 10 psi to the rear brakes. This allows the rear drums to have a pre-load of sorts, making braking more efficient. This is fine and freakin dandy for drum....Not so much for disk... So now, I get to locate a bypass line (buy or build) and then I get to start the break in process.

Anyways on a side note. I got my dash reconfigured and reinstalled. Not too bad for a back woods country bumpkin!!
looking good brother.you're rite,the factory disk/drum combination valve on the drivers side frame rail where all lines meet up distribute more pressure to the drums.they do sell a replacement disk/disk version that changes this for you.it's a straight swap.change that combo valve you're done.

Last edited by melloelky; 10-12-2015 at 06:38 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #142  
Old 10-13-2015, 07:07 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by melloelky View Post
looking good brother.you're rite,the factory disk/drum combination valve on the drivers side frame rail where all lines meet up distribute more pressure to the drums.they do sell a replacement disk/disk version that changes this for you.it's a straight swap.change that combo valve you're done.
Thanks man. By the way...... Who is "THEY" I would like to simply buy this and be done!
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!
Reply With Quote
  #143  
Old 10-13-2015, 07:08 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtinsmith View Post
"Waiting with bated breath" (Shakespeare)! ...bet you didn't seen it that I be so well read!!!!

Doug

BWAHAHAHAHA!
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!
Reply With Quote
  #144  
Old 10-13-2015, 10:37 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

Success!!

OK, Here are the pictures of my factory plastic injected u joint removal.
I am installing a bastard 1330/1350 u joint to work with my factory spec drive shaft and new QP 9"

1) Old unit actually except the ugly old grease- the trunions, caps and bearings all looked good! If you look closely here at the shoulders there are flat spots machined into them with little circular dots. This is the injection hole for the plastic material. If these holes are empty, then you can skip the next two steps! (Lucky!!)

2/3) These are some of the tools you will need: A heating/flame producing tool (around 1250 degrees I think), hammer, screw driver/pick, pair of pliers and something to clean up the mess.

4)Here you can see the plastic material maybe infused with what looks like fiberglass. Next, Pull the rubber grease skirts off the caps first and try not to concentrate your flame on the cap itself. Heating the cap itself will cause the grease to heat up and this causes bad burns when it pops out!! OUCH! Can't use water on a grease fire! It will continue to burn until the grease cools itself down or you wipe it off with a towel.

5) The plastic is not the only thing holding the cap on. On the inside of the shoulders is a heavy "C" clip. Pry this out with the screw driver or pick. Then work the caps out the shoulders using the hammer by striking the trunions (the round part the caps sit on). This should not take a TON of force, you're just looking to "jar" it a little bit. Once the first side is out then move on to the next.

6)Here the shoulders are wire brushed and scraped. *******MAKE SURE TO CLEAN THE GROOVES OF THE RESIDUAL PLASTIC!!***** If you don't that will cause the new caps to try and bind in the shoulders. This could even break the shoulders and mess the trunions and or bearings up. Either way, your day just went from sucky to WTF! This plastic may need to be heated again to be fully removed from the groove.

7)Here is a picture of the bastard u joint. Up and down is the 1350 and left to right is the 1330. The width is the same between them but the difference is the diameter of the caps. In order to determine which u joint you need here, is fairly simple. You need the factory measurements of the new equipment and the old equipment. The old u joint at the drive shaft and the new u joint at the differential. Measure across the width and then the diameter of both the old and the new. Or what ever you are working on. In all reality, the BEST move here is to have a new drive shaft built with both ends 1350 and new 1350 slip yolk. However, the bastard u joint is the cheaper route and frankly fine if you are not planning a gazillion HP! Like in my case, this car is a simple cruiser and a tire shredder....DONE!

8) Finally, installation. The way I do it is I use a big vise and a table. I lay the drive shaft up on the table into the mouth of the vise. I visually align the shaft and the jaws so there really close to square. ****SQUARE IS IMPORTANT HERE***** If you try and press these together and the caps are not square to the shoulders, they will bind and possibly break. It just takes a few seconds to do and you can use friend to help if need be. Once the caps have started, I center the trunions of the cross section into the caps. I slowly slide the cross section back and forth as I am working the jaws closed. This ensures free movement and that nothing has gone wrong. Once the jaws have fully seated the caps. It's time for the hammer works. Not with He-Man style strokes, you are just looking to seat the caps so that you can place the "c" clips in. Then, viola, Presto, Yatzee! Done Turkey!!!

OK guys that's all I have for now. I hope this will help someone sometime and let me know if you have any questions, concerns or complaints. I have an 800 number you can call!! JK
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 002.jpg (120.4 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 003.jpg (102.6 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 004.jpg (102.1 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 005.jpg (83.7 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 008.jpg (127.7 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 009.jpg (86.7 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 010.jpg (134.1 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu 10_12_15 013.jpg (92.2 KB, 10 views)
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!

Last edited by mylilboo; 10-13-2015 at 11:33 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #145  
Old 10-13-2015, 04:40 PM
melloelky melloelky is offline
Hot Rodder
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: boston,mass
Posts: 929

Default

http://www.inlinetube.com/#!product/...ar-disc--pr101
this is the one I'm running but there are are other folks selling them I'm sure..i bought all my lines and hardware from them so it was a no brainer.if nothing else read the ad so you can get an idea what you need to get your hands on.
Reply With Quote
  #146  
Old 10-14-2015, 05:41 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

Right on, Thanks man!
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!
Reply With Quote
  #147  
Old 11-02-2015, 08:52 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

Decided to go with a Wilwood proportioning valve. It was about the same price as the one listed by Melloelky, but as I am planning on running a full Wilwood set up. I figure why not keep it all in the same family.
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!
Reply With Quote
  #148  
Old 11-27-2015, 08:50 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

OK, so after many months of back and forth a few miscomunications and a a flat misunderstanding (on my part-It think) My custom RnD Fabrication radiator is here! YAY!

Upon opening the box, it is not how I pictured the shroud to look. I was thinking the shroud needed an edge or a space to allow flow from the corners out. Instead the shroud is a simple flat piece of aluminum, no biggie to me either way as long as it works!!! Over all I am VERY satisfied with the end result. First impression is very positive so far. I will get my rad pulled out and the engine bay cleaned up and painted. Ill post pics and further reviews as I go along.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu radiator day 001.jpg (120.1 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu radiator day 002.jpg (74.6 KB, 8 views)
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!
Reply With Quote
  #149  
Old 11-27-2015, 08:54 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

The packaging is pretty good, but we got lucky with it. I can see where the fan was pushing out on the box. So if the box had been squeezed or smashed just a bit....Well, this would be a different type of entry.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu radiator day 003.jpg (85.6 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu radiator day 004.jpg (83.0 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu radiator day 005.jpg (75.1 KB, 9 views)
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!
Reply With Quote
  #150  
Old 11-27-2015, 09:00 AM
mylilboo's Avatar
mylilboo mylilboo is offline
Professional Shadetree
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: N. DFW TX
Posts: 567

Default

Ok, I'm off to replace this old and tired rad. Here are a few of where the new one will hopefully be planted!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu radiator day 006.jpg (112.7 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 78 Malibu radiator day 009.jpg (118.9 KB, 5 views)
__________________
If you ain't bangin gears , causin tears you might be better off in a Ford!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:03 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vB.Sponsors