GBodyCentral.com  
  #1  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:41 AM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default 1984 El Camino Rear Disc brakes upgrade

I posted this in another forum and have chimed in on other threads, with an attempt to help others.

Anyhow, I have upgraded and am finishing upgrading the rear disc on the el co to 2002 Camaro disc brake, others have done this. But I couldn't really find a thread similar to how I've posted this how-to, so to speak...

So here it goes, hopefully this helps someone out...

found these brakes on a half off sale at a local yard... the pads and rotors were good and I was trying to make this as inexpensive of an upgrade as possible (i had made one mistake along the way, as far as purchasing brackets for this upgrade, but no brackets will work, so i will leave those details out of this thread, for further on that, go through the thread in my sig). this will be a rather long thread, so i will make several posts in a row, to try to keep everything at the top and clean this up as i go along, alot to type (prices, etc.) so bare with me as I update and edit this thread, but feel free to ask any questions, etc as I go along, the brakes are already installed on the car, the only thing i have left to do is to hook up the proportioning valve, hook up ebrake (which is simple) and then bleed, test for leaks and adj prop valve...

cost me $65 to start this project...

I found a 2002 Camaro (doesnt matter if its a V6 or V8), these cars have 12" rotors and the bolt pattern is the same as our Gbody. Took off the brake caliper brackets, calipers, rotors, and pads, etc. also removed the axles and took the backing plate, which the brake caliper bracket bolts to. the backing plate also acts as the emergency brake. keep all bolts needed for these parts and at least the small brake line that is attached directly to the calipers.

this is what I got for the $65







Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 11:51 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:42 AM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

spent a little time with my son, cleaning the parts up real good, masking and painting.. took more work than I thought it would, but its just work...

spent another $6.50 (the actual price was around $26, but i had $20 in rewards points on my autozone card, that damn caliper paint is expensive... about $7 a can...lol)

so total I have spent $72



took it all apart... even the pads were in new condition, just dirty as hell...




tried, scrubbing the crap and cleaning the years of brake dust dirt and grime, with a brush and degreaser... pressure washer, then air tool... came out pretty clean, wish i woulda just went straight to air tool..lol







decently clean, but not clean enough







top part a brushed a little with air tool, bottom not






pretty clean now



Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 11:53 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:43 AM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

masked and cleaned up for paint...
had this laying around, so no extra cost... wax and tar remover, paint surface prep








red and black










Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 11:55 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:43 AM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

my son need to work on his own ****...lol... he loves to though, so not a problem, great kid... super tall, but thin, hes always trying to do push up, cause he thinks that gonna make him get bigger... i told him, just wait, itll come when you dont want it too... oh and excuse my dirty garage

http://youtu.be/zVAF5eeKU6g

http://youtu.be/XmzML_B2pCk

came out quite nice and looks better in person...



for swap meet prices, got a good deal on other stuff, but unfortunately, Ive found that I overpaid for the damn adjustable proportion valve... anyhow, I paid $60...

so my new total jumps up to $132 so far (calipers, rotors, with ebrake and pads, paint/prep, adjustable proportion valve) ...


brake parts looking good so far...




picked up some more products needed...



a total of $38 more spent, brings total up to $172

Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 12:03 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:44 AM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

loosened tires and put rear on jack stands, took wheels off



took the bottom screws out, loosened the top screws and pried up on the bottom to start the drain of the diff.


took the diff cover off and pull the two pins (smaller and larger one) to pull the axle c-clips, gotta push the tires in on each side to get each clip out one at a time...



pulled the drum out and then the axles...



took the two bolts out off the drum backing plate



pulled the brake line off the wheel cylinder


took a break (no pun intended)
still trying to get that damn bolt off each side... imma bout to torch it and set the whole thing on fire... waiting on longer wrench to get some good leverage on it... so far everything came off easy as hell, cept these two bolts


took all the other stuf off, didnt need to but wanted to feel a sense of accomplishment right quick


Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 12:06 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:44 AM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

just got on the ground with two wrenches and pulled on it... these pythons (i mean garden snakes) got the job done..., but others have suggested using penetrating oil over night, or a good ol impact gun... it came off fairly easy once i got down took a deep breath and pulled on it...



cleaned up the two 2002 backing plates masked and sprayed them up real quick, to be sprayed up


painted the backing plates, even though you wont see much of them..



another $7 for wheel seals, which I had on my rewards points from autozone, so no additional cost here... have a sawzaw, good blades and drill bits (I used three, small pilot, then little larger, than 3/8s)...



cut the top of the flange off (both sides), right at the edge of the raised part, just below the large hole (used a little oil to help with the cut and drilling, was pretty thick metal...




drilled the bottom holes out with 3/8" drill bit


bolted the backing plate on the flange using the two bottom nuts and bolts... holes lined up perfectly, then marked the top two hole (using small drill bit to drill pilot holes), then used slight larger bit, then drilled using the 3/8" bit...the top holes on the backing plate are slightly farther apart than the holes on the bottom... doing all the cutting and drilling probably took about 5-10mins at most












Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 12:13 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:44 AM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

bolted the backing plates on, fit perfect and flat against the flange...


popped out the old wheel seals, put in the new...




I put the axles back in like a jackass... need to pull them back out to put longer studs in, which I totally forgot about, i want more thread...


push the axle in, put the clip back in, pull the axle out till it stops, do the same for the other axle, then put the larger pin in, make sure it is lined up with the bolt that locks it in... (which i will be reversing to take the axle back out and put studs in) Ive never done anything like this, I am surprised how it is coming together pretty nice, but you run into little stuff, the nest swap will be cake... :evil:


Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 12:15 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:45 AM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

took the pressure off the shocks, which will need to be relocated (easy to do with L bracket, i may just use angle iron not sure yet)


started bolting up the caliper (greased the caliper bolt holes)..



put the rotor on the axle, bolted the caliper bracket to the backing plate, then put the brake pad hardware in and pads, bolted on the caliper, with the brake line on the bottom, bleeder on the top...




what one side looks like...


with wheel on...

Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 12:17 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:45 AM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

so, pulled the axles back out, had the arps studs ($55, brings total to $227) pressed in and put the axles back in, put the wheel on and test fit the rim/rotor etc on, to see how much i needed to cut the studs, they were 3", cut them down by 1 1/2"...










Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 12:21 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:45 AM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

picked up my parts to make shock relocation brackets, 3/16" thick angle iron (each side 1.5")... picked up some grade 8 bolts, washers and lock nuts, while i was at it...

made the brackets 1.5" wide... got out the grinder, and unibits, made these in about 5 minutes, and primered them for now...



marked my lines...


drilled holes first then cut...





needed two of them obviously, cleaned them up a little and primered them...




brings total to $237

Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 12:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:46 AM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

the bolts and stock shock bolt fit real tight, so had to out the new bolt in first without a washer... then the shock mount, took the stock shock bolt off the shock bracket on rear end... stay with me...






then fit it together... on my bracket... to test fit the bolts...

Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 12:25 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-13-2011, 12:10 PM
nowukno's Avatar
nowukno nowukno is offline
Super Moderator


 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: So.Cal
Year: 1978
Model: El Camino
Engine: SB V8
Posts: 5,067

Default

__________________








My Garage
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-13-2011, 12:25 PM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

used thread locker on the new bolt... none on the shock mount...







and they look good and provide plenty of clearance
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-13-2011, 12:26 PM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

bolted the shocks back on and torqued em down, then the calipers and brackets...plenty of room...







now for the brake lines, I rented a double flaring tool from autozone... cut the brake line to where they would look clean and flared them... remember to put the threaded nut back on the line before you flare them...










tightened the stock camaro short brake line from the caliper to the shortened stock g body lines...






Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 12:30 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-13-2011, 12:26 PM
LSCustoms LSCustoms is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
Default

so mostly done with the rear... just gotta hook up the proportioning valve, ebrake, bleed and check for leaks, then adjust the proportioning valve...








Last edited by LSCustoms; 09-13-2011 at 12:34 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1984 El Camino Conquista.....Brown Sugar 2.0! melman109 Member Projects 101 05-28-2012 11:21 PM
Seville rear disc brakes on a G-body? oldtinsmith Brakes 16 04-25-2012 01:54 AM
rear disc brake question 87ttops Brakes 3 03-18-2012 06:08 PM
rear disk brakes question(s) 85mino Brakes 32 09-12-2011 05:06 PM
8.5 10 bolt rear disc swap Kris_84elky Brakes 23 10-27-2010 08:52 AM


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:55 AM.