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Old 06-28-2011, 06:49 AM
Andy's Auto Andy's Auto is offline
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Default THE Best Brake Upgrade for the Dollar

Not an original idea but works incredibly well none the less.

My TType and Malibu both hit the 130+ MPH at the track and lets face it, stock G body brakes are just scary with hard use.

My bone stock 10.5 inch single piston fronts would work great on a small displacemt or non boosted application but have gotten me in trouble a few times.

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/u...aponica001.jpg

I grabbed these at the boneyard for just over $90 for both sides. I pulled them from a 2002 Jimmy SLT. They are twin piston calipers, come stock with Akebono pads, a hubbed spindle assembly and 11" rotors.

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/u...aponica003.jpg

They easily cleared my stock TType wheels that are 15x7 with 3.95" of back spacing.

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/u...aponica002.jpg

And the best part of all, they are truly a bolt in. You get the benifit of a greater swept area for pad contact, a better bearing design, and if you find them in good shape all it will cost you is a little time, around a hundred bucks and some brake fluid.

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/u...aponica005.jpg

Try it, you will like it. There are a few other years on the Hollander Interchange, and they will directly bolt to a 78-87 G Body.

Andy
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:17 AM
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Okay Andy,,,,,,,,,,,,,now that you've teased me, please tell me more, and in more detail! Can the stock upper and lower front control arms be used? What flexible brake hose is used from the hardline to the caliper (and frame clip)? Ball joints? Tie rods to centerlink? Can you tell me more about alignment (shimming top control arm cross shaft)? Is the spindle the same as the 2-wd 1998+ blazer (and wheel bearing)?
Can you list ALL the needed parts? Thanks.

Doug
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:36 AM
Andy's Auto Andy's Auto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtinsmith View Post
Okay Andy,,,,,,,,,,,,,now that you've teased me, please tell me more, and in more detail! Can the stock upper and lower front control arms be used? What flexible brake hose is used from the hardline to the caliper (and frame clip)? Ball joints? Tie rods to centerlink? Can you tell me more about alignment (shimming top control arm cross shaft)? Is the spindle the same as the 2-wd 1998+ blazer (and wheel bearing)?
Can you list ALL the needed parts? Thanks.

Doug
Doug, by bolt in I mean bolt in. Testicle joints, tie rods are the same length and taper. The rubber brake lines off the Jimmy clip right into the stock hard lines and use the original clip. Two and 4 wheel drive are the same. 2 wd just has a dust cap in the splined hole for the unused axle. Replacemeny bearings run around $80 at any parts store. Just cut the ABS wires off flush.

One thing to add, you should not to have to realign the car, but it is not a bad idea just to be sure. I put my Regal on my aligment rack and it was perfect.

Try it, you will like it. I promise

Andy
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:38 AM
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I do believe the twin piston setup is GMC only or ZR2 Blazer and S10. I have the old set off my 2000 Blazer and they are still single piston but with the hub bearing. That sweet setup led me to my 65 442. I sold the lowered Blazer and part of the deal was to lift the truck back to stock ride. Upon leaving the boneyard a guy was scrapping some ugly yellow car. He said it had a title so i offered $500 for it. He brings it to the shop and I unload it with my forklift. Turned out to be a real 442 missing only the front sheet metal. $15k later it might run this year.
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Last edited by Andy's Auto; 06-28-2011 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 06-28-2011, 08:00 AM
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Andy, I gotta say thank you! This is definitely happening on my bu asap. Very substantial upgrade for minimum investment. Even if you pieced that stuff together new it would be a hella brake upgrade fairly cheap compared to other aftermarket companies. Thanks for the info, I'm calling my local yards today!
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:31 AM
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Great info Andy
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:04 PM
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I've read about doing that upgrade for awhile. You certainly scored the parts for a good price.
Time to scour the boneyard again. Can't beat the price for a dual piston caliper set-up.

Jack
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:22 AM
Andy's Auto Andy's Auto is offline
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I did forget to mention. 78-81 cars are 7/16 wheel studs. The Jimmy will have 12.5x1.50. Have to change the lugnuts.
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Old 06-29-2011, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy's Auto View Post
I did forget to mention. 78-81 cars are 7/16 wheel studs. The Jimmy will have 12.5x1.50. Have to change the lugnuts.
Not a bad trade off at all.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy's Auto View Post
I did forget to mention. 78-81 cars are 7/16 wheel studs. The Jimmy will have 12.5x1.50. Have to change the lugnuts.
Sound's like a great conversion. But couldn't you open up the holes and use 1/2" studs which are stronger than 7/16" anyway? Just a thought.
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy's Auto View Post
I did forget to mention. 78-81 cars are 7/16 wheel studs. The Jimmy will have 12.5x1.50. Have to change the lugnuts.
================================================== =======
That wouldn't be a big deal for me. I'm already using 12mm x 1.50 studs all around. My GN rear already had metric studs, I just replaced the fronts so that they all matched.
Oh, and the type of lugnuts I'm using are (metric) compatible with the wheels I'm using.
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donkzilla View Post
Sound's like a great conversion. But couldn't you open up the holes and use 1/2" studs which are stronger than 7/16" anyway? Just a thought.
Not 1/2 inch. 12.5 mm. New ones are metric.
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Old 06-29-2011, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy's Auto View Post
Not 1/2 inch. 12.5 mm. New ones are metric.
I think you might have missed my point. 1/2" is bigger than 12.5 mm I believe so I'd use the 1/2" studs to eliminate the metric studs & lugnuts completely. I also use 5/8" studs in the rear because you can never be too safe.
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Last edited by Donkzilla; 06-29-2011 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 06-30-2011, 07:31 AM
Andy's Auto Andy's Auto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donkzilla View Post
I think you might have missed my point. 1/2" is bigger than 12.5 mm I believe so I'd use the 1/2" studs to eliminate the metric studs & lugnuts completely. I also use 5/8" studs in the rear because you can never be too safe.

ahhh!
But that would be each his own. I run Moser 7/16 studs in the back of my Bu and have exactly 6 mid 9 second passes. Insurance? Yes, Required? Maybe.
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:53 PM
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Wow you might be playin with fire w/ 7/16" studs in the back. If you get your short times down into the 1.30's I would strongly suggest atleast 1/2" studs. Keep those 7/16" lugnuts tight brother. Let them back off just a little and you could possibly go for the ride of your life. Keep the shiny side up.
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